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10 tips for perfect false lash retention

01.02.24 4546x read

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Eyelash retention is one of the most important factors that significantly affects whether or not clients will be satisfied with their eyelash extensions. The better the quality of the retention, the longer the clients' lashes will last and you will have the space to make more customers happy. So it's a win-win on both sides: clients will be happy and you will be able to expand your customer base.

Why is eyelash retention so important?

You can attract new customers to your salon by using social media, especially through great photos of your work, but there's nothing like positive reviews from existing customers. When they recommend you to their friends, they'll be sure to mention the atmosphere in the salon and how perfect their lashes always are when they leave the salon, but how long their lashes last can also be a deciding factor. And it's that last point that we'll focus on in this article.   

Eyelash retention is how long the false eyelashes last on the natural ones before they fall out.

Each of us has a different eyelash growth cycle, which is constantly changing. It depends on the season, for example, but also on hormones. On average, people lose 3 to 5 natural eyelashes per eye every day. This is completely normal and healthy. But since this cannot be expressed completely accurately, there is also no fixed period of time for which a set of eyelash extensions should last, we can talk about a range of 4-7 weeks. In order to get your clients closer to that higher limit, it's a good idea to follow these tips that can positively affect retention.

1. Temperature and humidity in the salon

It's not about making sure you or your client is comfortable and warm in the salon. The temperature and humidity of the air significantly affects the durability of the adhesive! Whether you're working with a beginner's glue or a more experienced glue, the ideal humidity is 45% and the ideal temperature is 23°C. An acceptable humidity range is between 40 and 60% and a temperature range between 18 and 28°C. Because all of our adhesives are not susceptible to minor fluctuations and have a wide range of acceptable humidity and temperature, you will have a great time working with them.

If the humidity in the room is higher than ideal, the main component of the adhesive (cyanoacrylate) will activate earlier and this will speed up the curing process. This means that the glue can dry before you apply the false eyelash to the client's natural eyelashes. On the other hand, if you keep the salon cold and dry, which can be especially likely in winter, the glue will dry slower than usual and the client may subsequently complain of poor retention, and we don't want that.

TIP: If you don't want to worry about the temperature or humidity in the salon, choose a UV glue that will be cured with a UV lamp. This will ensure that it doesn't spontaneously cure before you need it. Read more about the UV lash system.

2. Choose the glue based on the speed of drying

As I indicated in the first point, there are several types of adhesives. Choose the right one according to your experience and preference. For each adhesive, you will find information about its drying speed. But what exactly does that mean? It is the time that begins with the pulling of the false eyelash from the drop of glue and ends with proper placement on the natural eyelash.

If you are working with an adhesive that dries in 1 second but it takes you 2 seconds to place the lash, you may find that the lashes fall off very shortly after the client leaves your salon. On the other hand, if you have to hold the false lash on the natural one for some time before the glue dries, your work is unnecessarily prolonged and you spend much more time than you realistically need to glue the whole fan.

For these reasons, you can find both glue for beginners, which dries in 5 seconds, and glue for the more experienced, which dries in just 2 seconds, in our online shop.

3. Freshness and storage of the glue

If you buy new glue but it's not yet time to use it, store it in a cool, dry and dark place, ideally in the fridge. Check the shelf life before using it and never use glue that will be expired! For this reason, it's not a good idea to buy dozens of adhesives to stock up on just because they were on sale. After all, they may end up in the bin as they will no longer be usable.

It's not a good idea to work with glue fresh out of the fridge straight away - leave it at room temperature for at least 24 hours. Once opened, don't put it back in the fridge, but store it in a cool, dry place out of sunlight. To ensure you really only get the best retention, try to use the glue within 30 days of opening it.

TIP: As you may have guessed, glue has a huge impact on retention. But if you're still not best friends with it and feel like it's something to work on, check out my other article detailing 5 principles for working with glue.

4. Clean the natural lashes

Make sure your client's natural eyelashes are perfectly clean before applying the lashes. This means that there is no mascara, eyeliner, moisturizer or oil-based products applied to the eye area. All of these would affect the longevity of the lashes in a very negative way!

Even though you have instructed your clients to come in for lash touch-ups with their make-up off, there will be some that come in with a layer of makeup. In this case, there's nothing easier than giving them a make-up remover pad and micellar water or a non-oily make-up remover and asking them to remove their own make-up. After all, it will be easier for them. But then you take care of the lashes themselves. Use a cleansing mousse, soft brush and micro-brushes to ensure you remove any unwanted dirt from their lashes. And then don't forget to apply a primer to degrease the lashes.

TIP: Do you want a refresher on all the hints and tips that I think are important in our work? Read the article "Practical tips on how to go about refilling false lashes" or also "3 reasons to always use a primer when extending lashes".

5. Separate the lashes correctly

Make sure that you only glue one false eyelash to one natural eyelash at a time and that the surrounding eyelashes do not get soaked in the glue. This is ensured by proper isolation. Use tweezers to isolate the eyelashes and keep the separated eyelash away from the others until you are 100% sure that the glue is properly cured.

If you don't spend enough time separating your lashes and need to speed up your work, poorly glued lashes will fall off very soon and you'll see an angry customer in the salon sooner than you'd like. In addition, you may get the so-called stickies, which will make clients uncomfortable and won't look good. If the lashes do accidentally stick together somewhere, you can still salvage it during the final inspection of the whole piece and carefully separate the stickies.

6. Correct placement of the false lashes

It takes a bit of practice to figure out how to apply false eyelashes correctly. But now you can look at it from a theoretical point of view, which will help you a lot in practice.

The leg of the false eyelash should sit smoothly on the root of the natural one with its entire surface (usually about 2-3 mm). If the base of the fan does not fit the eyelash correctly, it is possible that it will catch on something and the whole eyelash will be torn off. If the false eyelash or fan is pointing diagonally, the area on which the glue is applied will be significantly limited and will not stick 100%.

From above you can hardly see these details, so feel free to bend more towards the client and look at the lashes from the side. Only from this view can you make sure that the base of the false eyelash fits as it should.

7. Change your drop of glue

We've covered a lot about glue, but there's one more thing that's important to keep in mind when working with glue, and that's changing the droplets in a timely manner. Because a drop of our glue will stay fresh for an hour, an hour and a half at the most. But if you need significantly more time to work, it's okay, just remember to drip a fresh drop of glue.

Again, this point does not apply to UV adhesives, which simply do not dry spontaneously.

8. The weight of extended eyelashes

False lashes will tend to fall out if they are too heavy for natural lashes. If the client's natural lashes are very fine or they are just recovering from a poor quality false lash application from a previous salon, it is not a good idea to glue on large, heavy fans. Explain to the client that you will choose only 3D lashes for this time instead of 5D lashes. I'm sure she'll understand and prefer to choose a smaller volume with longer lasting lashes.

As we said above, lashes fall out and also grow back gradually. Because of this, every time you work on an client, you are bound to find baby lashes that are significantly shorter and finer than all the others. And it's also not a good idea to glue false ones on these lashes. Again, the fan might be too heavy for the eyelash and it would fall off very soon. 

9. Educate your clients

Up until now, I've been focusing on how you can improve retention directly in the salon. But I'm sure you know how important client aftercare is as well. So be sure to educate every client about proper care, even though it may seem like she's heard it all many times. The longer and thicker the lashes, the more consistently they should be cared for.

As a rule, there are 6 basic principles:

  •     do not use oil-based products
  •     no mascara
  •     take care when removing make-up
  •     do not apply pressure to your eyelids
  •     do not sleep on your stomach
  •     clean and comb your eyelashes regularly

10. Summer requires special care

You should take special care when getting eyelash extensions in summer, when the conditions in the salon are completely different - especially the temperature and humidity. Just to be sure, read this article where I go into detail on the 3 main things to watch out for during the summer months. In addition to the basic eyelash care tips, you can also give your client special summer tips against premature false eyelash loss.

 

I wish you all the best with your eyelash extensions and most importantly, that the fans hold firmly. If despite these tips you still struggle with retention, check out this earlier article where I described 3 things you need to know to prevent bad retention.

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