Refilling false eyelashes on a regular basis is the best way to ensure your client always has a beautiful, full set and save her and yourself time and expense. Or is it? When is it still appropriate to refill, in what cases do you just renew the whole set, and what is the best way to go about refilling? That's what I'll tell you in today's article!
All lash artists learn how to create the perfect set from scratch. Then the day comes when they have to start adding to it and suddenly they're not 100% sure how to go about it. Don't worry. If you know how to apply eyelash extensions, refilling them will be a breeze. You just have to follow the steps in order, step by step...
Step 1: Clean lashes are a must
Even if a client left your salon 2-3 weeks ago with a fresh set of eyelashes and instructions on how to take proper care of them and even if you tell clients that they should come to their refill without make-up, there will always be a client who shows up on the day of her appointment with a layer of make-up as if she had an Instagram filter instead of a face.
So, grab the cleansing foam and let's get to it! Before you get down to business, don't hesitate to ask the client to take some of the make-up off herself. Hand them micellar water (or a make-up remover that isn't oil-based), cotton pads, and let them remove their eye make-up. It's both more pleasant and faster for both of you. Instruct them to be gentle in the lash area and leave most of the work to you.
The remaining dirt is removed from the client's lashes with the help of cleansing foam, soft application brush and micro-brushes.
Never neglect this first step or your new lashes may not adhere properly.
Recommended reading:
- Eyelash cleansing foam - is it unnecessary or the key to success?
- Micro eyelash brushes - what are they good for and how to use them?
Step 2: Remove inappropriate eyelashes
Of course, we refill lashes to save time we would spend removing all the lashes and then making a fresh set. And that's still the case! However, for the refill to look good, the lashes that are visibly damaged and twisted or have already "outgrown" the rest of the line by more than 3 millimeters can't stay in the set.
Removing specific lashes is a delicate job, so try to be very careful, gentle and only remove lashes that absolutely require it.
Take tweezers in your hands, hold the natural lash with one hand and use the other tweezers to peel off the false lash. Holding the natural eyelash will prevent the eyelash from being pulled or even ripped out.
If you find an overgrown eyelash with a too-tight joint or glue, use remover. Be very precise with its application. Make sure you isolate the lashes you're going to apply the remover to so you don't inadvertently disturb other joints. It's best to use an S-size micro-brush to apply it.
In addition to clumps and overgrown or damaged eyelashes, remove lashes that have a visibly tenuous or weakened bond between the adhesive and the natural eyelash.
Step 3: Refilling eyelashes
Now it's time to focus on the refilling itself. Remember that natural lashes must be perfectly clean, combed and the roots primed before refilling. In my article Stop Poor Retention - 3 Things You Need to Know, you can be reminded of what perfect natural lash extension prep should look like.
Also, feel free to draw a lash map on the pad under your client's eyes (a properly filled out client card will remind you what styling you used) so you don't have to hesitate about which length of fan to reach for.
An observation from practice: Usually the set on one eye is fuller than on the other. But you don't have to find fault in your work, more often it is due to the fact that the client prefers to fall asleep on the left side of the face, etc.
Start filling in on the eye where there are fewer lashes. Gradually work your way up to the point where the eyes look almost the same (i.e., equally imperfect). From that point on, you can systematically continue working on both eyes, filling in any gaps symmetrically.
Interesting reading from my blog:
- False eyelashes that hold: 5 principles for working with glue
- UV Lash System - has the eyelash extension revolution arrived?
- Work like a pro with the UV lamp
Is refilling enough? When should you apply a fresh set?
Any experienced lash artist should know when to add more lashes and when to create a new set from a quick inspection of her client's lashes.
Of course, the client has no desire to pay for a new set when it comes to extensions. However, if she has arranged to visit the salon a week or even two later than usual, the problem will not only be the gaps, but also the ingrown eyelashes, which often don't look pretty anymore and there won't be much left on the eye after they are removed.
If you suspect that this situation will occur, warn the client in advance so that they aren't surprised and can expect both an appropriate price and a longer visit to the salon.
Tip: Making an appointment in time is key
If the refills are to make sense and the final set look nice, it is most important that the client arrives on time.
Make an appointment with your client on the day she leaves your salon with a fresh set (the attendance card will help you with this). Refills should never be more than three weeks out (if using a traditional adhesive, you can schedule refills as late as week 4 if using a UV system). After that, gaps and outgrowths are usually too noticeable and refilling does not solve anything.
If the client wishes to be able to come in for refills as little as possible (e.g., up to three weeks), remind her of the importance of proper care for eyelash extensions.
Regular combing and gentle removal of eyelashes sometimes works wonders.
I'm curious to know how you work with eyelash extensions, refills and appointments in your salons. Drop me a line on Instagram. I'd love to hear about the experience of fellow women in the industry.
