Lash mapping: What is it and how to do it?

Eyelash styling, lash maps and lash mapping are words you must have heard if you are interested in eyelash extensions or if you do it for a living. However, if you're a beginner and you're confused about when to choose which lash map or you're not sure what a lash map even is and how to mark it, then read on! Just a few minutes and you will learn everything!

What is lash mapping and what is it good for?

Drawing auxiliary lines on the eye pad may seem like a waste of time. Surely you can "take a look" and apply false eyelashes so that they have some order, meaning and symmetry, right? You'd be surprised!

Even experienced lash artists with years of practice draw lash maps on the pad, even if only in a very simplified form. They have a good reason for it, and you're about to find out what it is!

Lash mapping is a technique in which you plan what lengths, curves and types of lashes you will use during the lash extension process to ensure that the final set is beautifully symmetrical, thick and not only suits the client but also looks good.

Go into your lash extensions with no thought, no plan and no lash map and you will soon find that the result will look accordingly. Plus, skipping the step of choosing and drawing a lash map will not save you any time in the end, as you will still have to think, guess and measure what lash and what length to actually come up with. With a lash map, on the other hand, everything is already black and white and you can concentrate on working efficiently and applying it properly.

Lash mapping is simply the key to a perfect result!

Reading tips:

• Lash map for cat eye styling - what should it look like?
• Lash map for eyeliner effect

Overview of basic lash maps.

 

How to choose and plot a lash map correctly?

Choosing a lash map

The client's wishes are one thing, but the expertly chosen lash style to match the shape of the eyes and face of the future wearer is another.

You will probably agree with me that recently there has been a particular demand for cat eye styling, which enhances that desirable sexy and seductive look. The sad truth, however, is that few women have the ideal eye position and shape for this styling.

The typology of faces and eye shapes and based on that, the right kind of eyelash styling and lash map is a vast topic that would make for several articles. So, I won't go in depth on this at this time, but if you have the opportunity, definitely feel free to attend a course dedicated to this. It will give you more than you would think!

Cat eye narrows and lengthens the eyes, so clients who have a droopy - sloping - outer corner of the eye will not benefit twice. It makes the eye look smaller, closed and the lash line falls below the level of the corner of the eye, which is not right.

My little tip: Instead of a cat eye, which suits women with high outer corners, style a squirrel lash map on a client who is adamant about a seductive look. It gives a similar effect to the cat eye, but will also suit those who don't have the ideal eye shape for a cat eye.

Basic rules for lash mapping

Of course, every lash map has its own specifics, but I have five basic rules to keep in mind at all times. They are:

1. Choose the appropriate lash map not only according to the client's wishes, but also according to your best professional judgment. Take a good look at the new client. Concentrate on the shape of the eyes, the face, as well as their symmetry, how deep the eyes are set, whether her eyelids are droopy, how high her eyebrows are set... Lash mapping should be thought about before the client lies down. Her face is differently toned when lying down and generally looks different than usual.
2. Choose the maximum length of false eyelashes to use in the set. The longest eyelash length is important not only for the final effect. You also need to take into account the condition and strength of your client's natural lashes, so that you don't put unnecessary stress on delicate lashes and risk their tendency to fall out prematurely. Also choose lash lengths based on how high arched the client's eyebrows are and how deeply sunken her eyes are.
3. Similarly, choose the smallest lash length for the client that comes to the inner corner of the eye. The inner corner of the eye should be as short as possible. Not only for aesthetic reasons, but long lashes could tickle or irritate the client in the corner. The corner of the eye should never bear an eyelash longer than 10 mm, but even that is an upper limit. Around 7 mm is ideal.

4. The more lengths you use in the set, the more natural the resulting effect will be. In no case should less than four lengths be used on an eye. But as I wrote, more lengths means a smoother and more fluid transition and effect, so feel free to go up to five or six lengths if circumstances allow.

5. Draw the lengths with a permanent marker on an applied gel liner under the eyes.

Example of the process of creating a natural lash map

With the theory out of the way, it's time to demonstrate how to draw a lash map. In this one, I will use one of the most commonly used ones - the natural lash map.

Step 1: First, mark where the centre of the eye is. The client should keep her eye open and look straight ahead in this step. It is a good idea to determine this point before the client lies down on the recliner. The center of the eye is a straight line imaginatively passing through the pupil of the eye.

Step 2: Mark where the natural eyelashes begin in the inner and outer corners. So you are not interested in the corner of the eye per se, but only where the eyelashes grow from.

Step 3: The centre line will help you to locate the main - longest - length of the false eyelashes. For the natural lash map, this is the space from the midline to the line that touches the edge of the iris on the outside of the eye. As you can see in the picture.

Step 4: Divide the remaining eyelash space at the inner corner (usually about 5 mm in width) into 2 - 3 more equal sized sections.

Step 5: Divide the remaining eyelash space at the inner corner into 4 or more equal sized sections. The more lengths you use here, the smoother the transition and overall lash line will be.