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The safe way to beautiful eyelashes: Work with the UV lamp like a professional

03.11.23 7434x read

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Recently, a new trend has stirred up the lash waters in the form of the UV Lash System. Not only is there debate about the convenience and practicality of using a UV lamp, but also about the fact that the radiation can contribute to faster skin aging, wrinkles or even the development of cancer. So, I decided to dispel your doubts about the safe use of the UV Lash System once and for all with this article.

UV lamps - a hidden threat?

Almost every technological innovation on the market is accompanied by an enthusiastic ovation and a warning about how dangerous it is. Of course, this "hype" has not escaped the UV lamps that are part of the UV Lash system. While some see them as a revolution and a groundbreaking innovation that will change the entire industry, others prefer to keep their distance or speak quite openly about the fact that both the lamps and UV glue are evil.

Personally, working with the UV Lash system has worked well for me. I like that it's quick, efficient and I don't have to keep an eye on the humidity and temperature. On the other hand, stepping on the pedal and synchronizing the work with my hands gave me quite a hard time at first 🙂 .

I also appreciate the fact that the UV glue doesn't smell as much, so my nasal mucosa doesn't suffer as much. I almost think it's unbelievable that I didn't mind the intense glue fumes from traditional gluing for many years.

I hear similarly positive feedback from other colleagues in the field, but of course I also get a lot of questions on my email about how safe UV lamps are and whether the information about their safety can be trusted.

How is it then? Is the use of UV lamps and UV glue the future of our industry or is there a catch?

Shortly about UV radiation

We are exposed to UV radiation every day as soon as we step out into the daylight. We take it in through our skin, and although sunlight is essential for us, it is rather harmful in large amounts. For this reason, we use creams with SPF and protective equipment such as sunglasses, hats etc.

Sunlight has radiation of different wavelengths with different labels (UVA, UVB and UVC). The wavelength that is used in UV eyelash application is UVA (360 to 400 nanometers). The lamps that are offered on the Lashes PRO e-shop have a wavelength value of 395 - 400 nm.

When applying the lashes, the client receives a dose of radiation equivalent to a short stay in the sun on a sunny spring or summer day (0.22 mW/cm2). If you apply UV throughout the day, the dose is obviously higher, but it is important to stress that the light only reaches you by reflection, not directly.

By the way, if you are a regular reader of my blog, you already know this from the aforementioned article UV Lash System - is the eyelash extension revolution here?. 

Nora de Paula is currently the most detailed expert on UV lamps for lash styling. I recommend following her Instagram @lash_artistry_prague, where she gradually publishes the conclusions of her research.

Using a UV lamp requires skill and a certain amount of caution. UV lamps, like many things in life, are a good servant but a bad master. However, reasonable caution should always be a given in professional work.

False lashes and allergies - how is it with the UV Lash system?

Some colleagues claim that after switching to the UV Lash system, some clients' allergy problems have been solved. This may be the case, but I definitely wouldn't bet on it.

UV glue

The glue for the UV system contains cyanoacrylate, just like regular eyelash adhesive. There's less of it, but it's still there. So if the client is allergic to this ingredient, she will have an allergic reaction anyway.

For some clients, the black dye in the regular glue may have caused eye irritation. For these, the use of UV glue should work without reaction because the UV glue is crystal clear.

Therefore, ask before each application if the client has any allergies or if she has felt any discomfort after the lash application. Allergy symptoms can vary - the most common are swelling of the eyelid, redness of the eye, foreign body sensation in the eye or tearing. But it can also be swelling of the nodes in the throat, breathing problems, the onset of a severe cold or sneezing.

When using a UV lamp, it is important to find out if the client is allergic to the sun (i.e. to UV radiation). This manifests itself as so-called sun eczema or urticaria. Some medications or creams can also increase the sensitivity to UV radiation. Before starting the application of false eyelashes, ask the client if she is currently taking antibiotics, high blood pressure medication or medications with St. John's wort. Anti-inflammatory medications or creams or certain psychopharmaceuticals can also cause skin irritation in combination with UV radiation.

TIP: To prevent a client from feeling like she's being cross-examined at her eyelash application, try asking a simple question: "Do you use any products that require you stay out of the sun?" She'll surely prefer answering that rather than than questions about a complete medical history, including medications.

Then write down all the information you have found in the Client Card. On the one hand, you will have it all in black and white, and on the other hand, at the next visit, you only need to look at the card and ask if the information still matches or update it.

UV glasses

Lash artist's eyes are worth their weight in gold

The eyes, together with the hands, are our most important working tool and as such we must protect them as a priority. If you are working with a UV system for an extended period of time, it is absolutely essential to protect your eyes with UV filtered glasses.

In case you use prescription glasses or for some reason regular plastic safety glasses do not suit you, you can have a quality pair of UV filter glasses custom made by an optometrist.

As I wrote above - your eyes are not exposed to the direct rays of the UV lamp, but to their reflection. This is created on the tapes or pads you use to tape your clients' eyelashes. Not all materials reflect light at the same intensity. You might be surprised at the differences between the tapes. After all, you can find out for yourself or read more about it on the instagram profile @lash_artistry_prague.

In a test conducted by hairstylist Nora de Paula, Lashes PRO gel pads ranked as the material with the least reflection. The Nichiban tape reflects slightly more light and the light blue tape showed the highest reflectivity in the test.

Safe and comfortable clients

It is important to think about the client when using the UV lamp. Even though her eyes are closed, the flickering of the UV lamp may not be pleasant. In addition, it is the clients who receive a direct "hit" from the UV lamp. While it's shining from a greater distance (up to 50 cm for the Expert UV lamp), always for only a few seconds, and the session never lasts long enough to cause problems, it's better to provide as much protection as possible.

The best way to protect the client's eyes is to tape over the eyelid, not just around the lower edge of the eyes. Not all clients may be comfortable with this, so at least try to suggest it to them, or find a compromise that works for both.

You can read more about the best way to do eye taping in the article Taping and working with tape as a way to perfect results.

I trust that you will approach the novelty that the UV system still is as true professionals and protect your health and the health of your clients as best you can.

Finally, I would like to share with you one more life hack when applying false eyelashes using UV.

To make sure all the lashes are holding as they should, flash the lamp on the lashes from below after you're done. This will ensure that all the UV glue is really cured. Uncured glue could cause an allergic reaction if it comes into contact with the skin. In addition, by thoroughly checking and curing the extra glue, you ensure long-lasting retention of up to 6 weeks!

The longevity of the lash set is not about the technology used, but depends primarily on the skill and care of each lash artist. In the article STOP bad eyelash retention - these 3 things you need to know! I describe how to make lashes last indefinitely.

You might also be interested in:

  •     6 principles on how to properly care for eyelash extensions
  •     Lash trends at the turn of the millennium
  •     14 tips for perfect photos of your work

I wish you nothing but a great experience in using the UV system and many happy clients. If there is anything you would like to know about UV lamps and eyelash extensions using the UV system, I would be happy if you message me on Instagram or Facebook.

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